Halloumi salad with almond crunch and tahini dressing. (Photo by Rey Lopez for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post)
Have you ever fallen out of love with a favourite food because you ate it too frequently?
Many years ago, middle school Matt spent these kinds of sweltering summer afternoons at the pool with friends, swimming, playing and collecting quarters to cash in for treats at the snack bar. A Snickers ice cream bar was my go-to, with that irresistible combination of chocolate, caramel, crunchy peanuts and cool vanilla ice cream. It was pure decadence on the pool deck. But after about two months of enjoying one every few days, I couldn’t bear to look at one.
This happened again in early 2023, this time with a salad.
I’ll admit I had never heard of Tatte until outposts of the Boston-based cafe started popping up all over the D.C. area a few years ago, but the prospect of a new, walkable-from-the-office takeout lunch option was worth checking out. And one menu item in particular caught my eye: the Crunchy Halloumi Salad.
It promised roasted carrots, radish and apples - all things I enjoy - but the siren call of squeaky halloumi cheese, creamy tahini vinaigrette and a crunchy, nutty topping was what got me. I ordered the salad, and it was delicious. It was sweet and salty, tart and earthy, chewy and crunchy, all at once. The next week, I picked up another. The next week, yet another.
Several years ago, Post Food and dining editor Joe Yonan featured a lentil soup recipe championed by a nurse who loved it so much that he ate it nearly every workday for 17 years. I could never do this. I’ve always craved variety in my day-to-day meals. But Tatte’s halloumi salad was testing me.
About six weeks into my new routine, I found myself ordering the salad for the second time in three days. But as I scooped up my first forkful of greens, I realized I had hit my quota. The flavors and textures had suddenly lost their allure. The salad and I needed to take a break.
Last fall, more than six months after my last halloumi salad, a colleague suggested we head to Tatte for lunch. We did, and I ordered the salad. It was good, but not quite what I remembered. The carrot batons were too large and not tender enough. The halloumi planks required more cutting than an optimal desk lunch salad should. The dressing seemed a little thinner and less flavourful.
Caramelised clusters of slivered almonds and sesame seeds make up the salad's crunchy topping. (Photo by Rey Lopez for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post)
So, I decided to try to make my own version at home. I sliced the carrot and radishes into rounds for easier eating and cut the apple into thin slices. I crisped up bite-size cubes of halloumi in a cast-iron skillet. I waffled between apple cider vinegar and lemon juice for the acid in the tahini vinaigrette (both work great) and added a touch of honey for balance. And I caramelised toasted almonds and sesame seeds to make the nutty, crumbly topping. Then, I tossed all the components together and put it to the test.
"This is great!” my wife said as she dug into the bowl. "I could eat this every day.”
By making this salad at home, you can vary the ingredients to keep things interesting. Swap out the carrots and radishes for sweet peppers and jicama. Use a peach or pear in place of the apple. The halloumi is a key ingredient, but you could save yourself a dirtied pan by using crumbled feta instead. And feel free to swap in your favourite vinaigrette.
However you choose to riff on this salad, I hope you enjoy it as much as I do - every once in a while.
Halloumi Salad With Almond Crunch and Tahini Dressing
4 servings (makes 8 cups of salad; 1/2 cup dressing)
Total time: 30 mins
Seared halloumi stars in this crunchy, Mediterranean-inspired salad that’s a riff on a menu item at Tatte Bakery & Cafe. Crunchy greens form the base, and the combination of carrots, apple and radishes brings sweet and peppery balance. Caramelized clusters of sliced almonds and sesame seeds deliver substantial crunch, while a rich and tangy tahini vinaigrette ties it all together.
The squeaky chunks of Halloumi make this salad substantial enough to serve for dinner, but it would also be welcome as a cookout side.
Storage: Refrigerate the salad and the dressing separately for up to 3 days. Store the almond-sesame crunch topping in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
Ingredients
For the almond-sesame topping
1/2 cup (1 1/4 ounces) sliced almonds
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
For the dressing
3 tablespoons well-stirred tahini
3 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon honey
1/2 teaspoon fine salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
For the salad
1 tablespoon neutral oil (such as sunflower or canola)
8 ounces Halloumi cheese, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
4 to 5 ounces crunchy salad greens, such as baby greens mix, or coarsely chopped Little Gem lettuce or romaine
4 medium radishes (4 ounces total), thinly sliced
1 large carrot (2 1/2 ounces), scrubbed and thinly sliced
1 medium sweet, juicy apple (6 ounces), such as Honeycrisp, Cortland or Jonagold, halved, cored and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons dried cranberries, cherries or golden raisins (optional)
Steps
Make the almond-sesame topping: In a medium (10-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-low heat, spread out the almonds in a single layer and toast, stirring frequently, until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool.
Return the pan to the heat and increase the heat to medium. Add the sugar, spreading it in an even layer, and let it melt, without stirring, 1 to 2 minutes. (Watch the pan closely.) Immediately return the almonds to the pan and stir to coat with the sugar. Add the sesame seeds and stir to combine. Immediately transfer the almond mixture to the plate and let cool.
Prepare the Halloumi: Rinse out the pan, wipe it dry and return it to medium heat. Add the oil and heat until shimmering. Arrange the halloumi in a single layer in the skillet, leaving a little space between each chunk. Sear until browned on one side, about 2 minutes, then flip the chunks and continue cooking until browned on the other side, about 1 minute more. Transfer to a plate and let cool.
Make the dressing: While the almond mixture and halloumi are cooling, in a medium bowl, whisk together the tahini, water, apple cider vinegar, honey, salt and pepper until smooth and thoroughly combined. You should have about 1/2 cup.
Make the salad: When the almond-sesame topping is fully cooled, use your hands or a fork to break it apart into bite-size chunks. In a large bowl, toss together the lettuce, radishes, carrot, apple, halloumi, almond-sesame topping and dried cranberries, cherries or raisins, if using, until combined. Drizzle about half of the dressing over the top and toss to coat. Serve immediately, with the rest of the dressing on the side.
Substitutions: Instead of sliced almonds >> use cashews or pumpkin seeds. Apple cider vinegar >> lemon juice. To cut down on the sweetness >> skip the honey in the dressing and use kohlrabi or jicama instead of the apple. Apple >> pear or peach. Sesame allergy? >> Use pumpkin seeds in place of the sesame seeds in the crunchy topping (or just skip them), and a nut butter, such as cashew, in place of the tahini.
Nutrition per serving (2 cups salad and 1 tablespoons dressing): 375 calories, 20g carbohydrates, 40mg cholesterol, 27g fat, 5g fiber, 17g protein, 11g saturated fat, 769mg sodium, 13g sugar
This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.
