Vegan Bean and Cheese Gorditas. (Photo by Peggy Cormary for The Washington Post)
I know the word "masa” means dough, particularly corn dough, but it might as well be short for "miracle,” because the process of producing this staple of Mexican (and other Central and South American) cooking is pure alchemy.
Dating back to Mesoamerica, nixtamalization (derived from an Aztec phrase) involves boiling field corn with an alkaline substance to soften its hull and make it more nutritious, then grinding it into a dough that can become a variety of traditional products.
Tortillas and tamales might be the best known to us Americans, but the list goes on to include sopes, pupusas, tlacoyas, tlayudas and so many more.
Making tortillas might be the most difficult to master for home cooks, because you need to get the masa disks super-thin, which is why a tortilla press comes in handy. But plenty of other ways to use masa can be done by hand, which is where my recipe this week comes into play.
Gorditas, whose name charmingly translates to "little fat ones” because of their squatter shape, can be patted out, griddled, split open, and stuffed with a filling (often a guisada, or stew). I got the recipe from author Dora Stone, one of the collaborators on my latest book, "Mastering the Art of Plant-Based Cooking,” and they fit right into her mission of showing how much precolonial Mexican cooking was actually vegan.
Stone told me that in her hometown of Ciudad Acuña, a famous gordita cart outside the local hospital offers many vegan options, including refried beans, potatoes in salsa verde, potatoes and poblano peppers, and nopales in a guajillo salsa.
For this recipe she kept things simple with refried beans and vegan cheese, but you can feel free to play around with your favorite fillings.
Pan-frying gorditas. (Photo by Peggy Cormary for The Washington Post)
Gorditas walk that line between appetizer and main course, meaning that this time of year, you can make some for a holiday party one night and then have the leftovers for dinner another. When I have less time, I pan-fry them in a modest amount of oil; when I’ve got more, I deep-fry them for that much more crispiness.
In case you worry that you need to either nixtamalize your own field corn or buy fresh masa, take heart: Gorditas work beautifully with masa harina, which was made ubiquitous by such companies as Maseca and more recently Bob’s Red Mill. Just add water, a little salt and some baking powder for lift and behold, once again, the miracle of masa.
Vegan Bean and Cheese Gorditas
These Mexican street treats are named gorditas ("little fat ones”) because, unlike tortillas or quesadillas, they are made from thicker disks of masa, which are griddled and then split and filled. That also makes them easier to put together, because you can pat them out by hand without a tortilla press. This recipe keeps things simple with refried beans and vegan cheese. Although these are considered antojitos (snacks) in Mexico, you can turn them into a meal by serving them with rice and a salad.
6 servings (makes 12 gorditas)
Active time: 30 minutes. Total time: 45 minutes
Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.
Where to buy: Instant masa harina, such as Maseca or Bob’s Red Mill brands, can be found in well-stocked supermarkets, natural foods stores, international markets and online.
Substitutions: Canned refried beans >> Home-cooked refried beans.
Variations: For crispier gorditas, instead of pan-frying, deep-fry them before cutting and filling.
Ingredients
1 3/4 cups (225 grams) instant masa harina (see Where to buy)
1/2 teaspoon fine salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 1/2 cups (360 milliliters) warm water, plus more as needed
3 tablespoons avocado oil or other neutral oil, plus more as needed
3/4 cup canned low-sodium refried beans (about 1/2 of a 16-ounce can), warmed
3/4 cup (85 grams) crumbled Herb-Marinated Tofu Feta or store-bought vegan feta, such as Violife, plus more for serving
Chopped fresh cilantro, for serving
Salsa Macha or another salsa of your choice, for serving
Directions
In a large bowl, combine the masa harina, salt and baking powder and whisk to combine. Pour in the water while using a spoon to slowly mix it into the masa harina. The dough should be moist but not sticky, like a soft Play-Doh. If necessary, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until you reach the right consistency. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and let rest for about 15 minutes.
Uncover the dough and divide it into 12 equal portions (about 45 grams each), rolling each into a ball. Cover the balls with a clean, damp towel as you work. Moisten your hands with a little water and flatten each ball with your hands to make a round patty, about 1/3 inch thick and 3 inches wide.
In a large (12-inch) cast-iron skillet or comal over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding and reducing the heat slightly if the oil starts to smoke, add 3 or 4 masa rounds and cook until the bottom is crisp and golden with brown spots, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip them over and cook until the other side is crisp and golden with brown spots, 3 to 5 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the rest of the masa rounds, adding a little more oil if the pan seems dry.
Let the gorditas cool slightly. Using a small serrated knife, cut a slit in the edge about halfway around each gordita’s circumference, making a pocket. Fill each gordita with 1 tablespoon of refried beans and 1 tablespoon of vegan feta. Garnish with more feta and cilantro, and serve warm with salsa.
Nutritional information per serving (2 gorditas): 249 calories, 12 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 32 g carbohydrates, 246 mg sodium, 0 mg cholesterol, 3 g protein, 4 g fiber, 1 g sugar.
This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.
Adapted from a recipe by Dora Stone in "Mastering the Art of Plant-Based Cooking” by Joe Yonan (Ten Speed Press, 2024).
