Boldly spiced merguez patties will raise your grilling game

Ground meat typically finds its way onto the grill in the summer, shaped into patties, tucked into buns, and layered with toppings at backyard cookouts and celebrations. But when the meat mixture is boldly flavored with spices and seasonings, it can be so much more than a burger.

Merguez is a prime example. The North African sausage is flavored with lots of spices, garlic and harissa. This recipe is a riff on merguez, adapted from my first solo cookbook, "Small Victories.” I’ve updated it a bit to suit my current tastes, which, honestly, have less to do with flavor and more to do with labor.

Instead of toasting and grinding your own spices, I now just call for ground spices. (Bonus flavor points if you’re using fresh, vibrant spices.) We’re also using a mix of beef and lamb for the ultimate savory, meaty mix. (Yes, you can use all one or the other, no biggie.) Lastly, I’ve swapped plain sliced cabbage for a simple, quick cabbage salad to make it a more flavorful, complete meal, so you don’t have to come up with a side dish. Topped with a cooling yogurt sauce, the whole thing needs nothing more, but some cooked rice, roasted potatoes or grilled pitas would be a great accompaniment.

If you do serve the merguez patties with pitas, you can tuck them into pockets with the cabbage salad and yogurt sauce for unbelievably delicious sandwiches. (This is also a great way to serve leftovers.) Feel free to borrow a tip from a trusty kebab recipe and thread the patties onto metal skewers, a few to each skewer, and grill them, before taking them off the skewer to serve. This would save you time when flipping the patties.

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Grilled Merguez Patties With Cabbage Salad

4 to 6 servings (makes 24 small patties)

Total time: 1 hour 15 mins

These spiced meat patties are inspired by merguez, the North African sausage flavored with lots of spices, garlic and harissa. When served with a cooling yogurt sauce and bright cabbage salad, they make a complete meal fit for outdoor entertaining, especially when tucked into pitas. While the patties use a mixture of ground beef and ground lamb, you could make them with all one or the other.

Storage: Refrigerate the cooked patties, yogurt sauce and cabbage salad separately for up to 3 days.

INGREDIENTS

For the yogurt sauce

1 cup plain yogurt (Greek or regular)

1 tablespoon red vinegar

1 garlic clove, minced or finely grated

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

For the cabbage salad

1 pound red cabbage (about 1/2 medium head)

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh dill

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

For the merguez patties

1 pound ground beef, preferably 80-percent lean

1 pound ground lamb

1 to 4 tablespoons harissa paste, to taste

8 garlic cloves, minced or finely grated

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 1/2 teaspoons fine salt

Pitas, for serving (optional)

STEPS

Make the yogurt sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together the yogurt, lemon juice, garlic and salt. Set the mixture aside while you prepare the rest of the recipe, or cover and refrigerate until needed. You should have about 1 cup.

Make the cabbage salad: Using a mandoline or sharp knife, thinly slice the cabbage, transferring to a large bowl as you work. (Discard or compost the core.) Add the parsley, dill, vinegar, olive oil and salt, and mix well to combine. The salad can sit at room temperature while you make the merguez, or be covered and refrigerated until needed.

Make the merguez patties: Line a large sheet pan with parchment paper. In a large bowl, gently mix together the beef, lamb, harissa, garlic, cumin, coriander, paprika and salt. (Overworking the meat can make it tough.) Divide the mixture evenly into 24 portions (about 1 1/3 ounces each) and shape each into a small patty, each measuring about 1/2-inch thick, placing them on the pan as you work.

Prepare the grill for direct heat. If using a gas grill, set it to 450 degrees. If using a charcoal grill, fill a chimney starter with charcoal, light it, and when the coals are white-gray with ash, pour them onto the charcoal grate, adding more charcoal, if necessary. Put the lid on the grill, making sure the vents are open all the way. When all of the coals are gray and hot, about 15 minutes, your grill should be medium-hot. (Use a grill thermometer, or test the heat by holding your hand, palm-down, about 4 inches from the grate, making sure that nothing flammable, such as clothing, is near the heat. If you can hold it there for about 4 seconds, the heat should be at medium, or about 450 degrees. Pull your hand away from the heat before it gets painful.) Make sure the grill grates are clean.

Place the patties on the grill and cook until the undersides are browned and release easily from the grates, 2 to 3 minutes. If they’re sticking, the crust hasn’t quite formed yet. (Just give them a moment.) Flip each patty and cook until browned on the other side, about 2 minutes more.

Transfer the cabbage salad to a large serving platter and arrange the grilled patties on top. Drizzle with the yogurt sauce and serve immediately, with pitas for stuffing, if desired.

Substitutions: Mix of ground beef and ground lamb >> 1 1/2 pounds of one or the other. Vegetarian? >> Use plant-based ground meat. Vegan? >> Use plant-based ground meat and also substitute nondairy yogurt for regular yogurt. Red cabbage >> green cabbage or kale. Parsley and dill >> all one or the other, or any tender herbs, such as cilantro.

Variations: No grill? Just broil the patties on a sheet pan under high heat or cook in batches in a skillet over high heat. Either way, cook until browned on both sides, about 3 minutes per side.

Nutrition per serving (4 patties, scant 3 tablespoons yogurt sauce and about 3/4 cup salad), based on 6: 552 calories, 10g carbohydrates, 114mg cholesterol, 44g fat, 2g fiber, 29g protein, 16g saturated fat, 1083mg sodium, 5g sugar

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

Adapted from "Small Victories” by Julia Turshen (Chronicle, 2016).